Thursday 24 March 2022

Peaks for Patrick 3 - Gleninchaquin Waterfall June 2021


https://www.idonate.ie/fundraiser/11429343_in-memory-of-patrick-michael-o-loughlin.html

June 2021 finally brought us back to Kerry and to Kenmare, allowing us a magical hike up to the top of Gleninchaquin Waterfall in Gleninchaquin Park on the beautiful Beara Peninsula. All through the winter and spring lockdowns, I'd been longing for those few days away. It's a place that soothes the soul. If your batteries are low and need recharging - this is just the place for that.

The elderflower was still in full bloom and here, in this little piece of heaven, we spotted some pink elderflower which I had not seen before. It looked so pretty...and as for the delicate scent of the gorgeous little flowers...unbelievable.


When we hike to the top of the waterfall with the kids, we always like to take the Riverwalk up. It meanders up alongside an often wildly gushing stream of water and the only sounds you will hear will be that of the water and the sheep baaing nearby. Sheep were Patrick's favourite and he'd often come home after creche to walk over to our portable DVD player to watch a few episodes of either Timmy Time or Shaun The Sheep - happily bopping along to the theme music.




Once you clear the Riverwalk, you come up to what has to be one of the most beautiful picnic spots in the country. Views reaching far down the valley, overlooking the lakes and the amazing Uragh Stone Circle. The light constantly changes with the passing clouds casting shadows onto the ancient mountains and valley below. You could get absolutely lost in your thoughts and memories up here sipping your tea or coffee.

Next you head up some steep steps along the trail. Through gates and over stiles, past sheep and trying (and failing) to dodge sheep do. You cannot really see it from the bottom but there is a bridge right at the top of that waterfall which, actually, gets even more amazing the wetter the conditions. Head out there on a dryish day just after some heavy downpours in the days prior. You'll be blown away by the sheer force of the water coming down the cliff face - with the goats and sheep just munching away at the foot of it...completely oblivious, it seems, to the beauty before them.


From the bridge you have the most gorgeous views of entire valley. A perfect vantage point to spot the signs of human habitation in this part of the world spanning hundreds, if not thousands of years. From the time of the people who built Uragh Stone Circle to the modern day farmers who tend to their sheep.

The trail leads on after the bridge and down the other side towards Cummeenadillure Lough but as that's a bit tricky to navigate for smaller legs in places, we tend to walk back the way we came and stop by the bottom of the waterfall at one of the picnic benches for another break.

Once fuelled up on sandwiches, Rich Teas and Tea, on we go to join the Heritage Trail with a short excursion up to Cummeenadillure Lough - a deep, black lake which someone living in the valley at the time once described to me as one of those Thin Places...a place where the veil between this and the next world is particularly thin; a place where one can walk in both worlds. Standing there, in this quiet, rugged and remote place, it somehow just makes sense. It truly feels other-worldly. 


Along the Heritage Trail, the kids always enjoy exploring the old famine cottage while I, time and time again, feel humbled as I ponder the decimation of the valley's inhabitants in the times of the Famine. Life must have been incredibly hard in those days.

The path then leads us back down and across the fields where you walk among the sheep and beside the streams back to the car park with the waterfall in perfect view all along the way.

Gleninchaquin, for me at least, is a little piece of heaven on earth. It's the atmosphere, the quiet (apart from the sounds of gushing water, birds and sheep) and the scenery (and so much more) that make it so special. I am sure Patrick would have loved it here and so every time I come back, I carry him close to my heart as I walk those trails and listen to the sheep baaing. 

Whenever it rains
I'll open up my hands
And whisper your name
Alone you stand
Though you're not coming back for you we are strong
Though you're not coming back you will live on
                                                                    Barry Murphy "Alone You Stand"


Kudos to the kids for sticking with us up and down hills with relatively minor complaining....!
 

Wednesday 2 March 2022

Peaks for Patrick 2 - Kerry Way Derrycunnihy Church to Lord Brandon's Cottage 28 May 2021


https://www.idonate.ie/fundraiser/11429343_in-memory-of-patrick-michael-o-loughlin.html

Not as much of a peak but an amazingly beautiful stretch of the stunning Kerry Way on a sunny day in May. The previous day was my birthday on which we did the Liscannor to Cliffs of Moher cliff walk...In pouring rain that (rather unsurprisingly for Ireland) got worse and worse as my mood nose dived. Soaked through to the skin, I refused to walk back to the car and insisted on a taxi which the good people at the visitor centre kindly arranged for us. Our hike the following day more than made up for it though!

Starting out at Derrycunnihy Church just before the famous Ladies View, we descended down the hill through some ancient oak woods. Over streams and along boardwalks we strolled along to the sound of the water gurgling and the birds chirping in the warm early summer sun. 



This is an out and back walk that is really enjoyable but probably tends to get muddy in places during the wetter months. The boardwalks help - as will good hiking boots. It was lovely to take our time to notice the beauty of nature around us.

There were traces of the people that used to live there a long time ago. Some time, someone built this house, raised a family there maybe. The air would have been filled with children laughing and the smell of the fire going. I often ask myself: Who lived there? Did they have a good life? What became of them? Why did they leave? Does anyone remember them still today?
The thought of people getting lost and forgotten in time is something that makes me a little sad. Knowing that eventually Patrick will be forgotten is something I struggle with even though I know it is envitable. His existence will some day be reduced to the few lines on his headstone with only occasionally someone stopping and wondering who he was and why he died so young. We do our best to keep his memory alive - hopefully these written records of us writing his name and telling his story will help our children and (please God) grand-children remember him.

Now, nature has taken back what was hers. There is a tree growing out of the wall of the cottage that strong hands built so many years ago. The people who lived there are long gone. I do hope someone in the area or even further afield remembers them. Maybe someone who traced their ancestors back to this spot. 

And what a beautiful spot it was. The walk rewarded us with stunning views of the Macgillicuddy Reeks. There were deer and streams and I wish we could have taken even more time immersing ourselves in our surroundings. Alas, we were on a deadline to be back to pick up the kids from afterschool so had to keep a beady eye on the time along our way.

We had our lunch at Lord Brandon's Cottage. Probably normally very busy with tourists from abroad, it was rather quiet given the ongoing travel restrictions. We had our pick of any of the lovely picnic benches and no queue to delay our getting a cool drink and something sweet to go with our packed lunch. The staff are very friendly and while the Cash Only policy (mainly due to the very poor internet connection) might catch some people by surprise, they are prepared for that and will seemingly often hand out self addressed envelopes for people to send the money later. A very decent thing to do and hopefully folks are honest enough to actually post what they owe.



It was enjoyable sitting there with a coffee and sandwhich for a while and watch the world go by. Some day, it might be nice to hike out there from Muckross but take the boat back across the lakes, taking in the Meeting of The Waters and Muckross Lake along the way.






Sooner than we wished we needed to, we started on our way back to the car but not without stopping at the Derrycunnihy Cascade and Falls for another short break. Given the rain the previous day, the river was full and the force of the water coming down the Falls magnificient to watch. However, stand still just for a second and the midges will be upon you. Stay longer and all they will have left of you will be your gnawed-clean skeletal remains....



So on we went up the hill and back to the car covered in a considerable amount of midge bites....
but with even more wonderful memories in our hearts.


Maybe you know
These people asleep
Suspended in time
Lying beneath.
Go seek the story
A life once known
Now twelve words chisled in stone
    "Hill of Graves", Hermitage Green

Friday 11 February 2022

Peaks for Patrick -1: Maghera 25 Jan 2021

https://www.idonate.ie/fundraiser/11429343_in-memory-of-patrick-michael-o-loughlin.html

In 2021, we marked the 10th anniversary of Patrick's death.

10 years of birthdays and milestones. 10 years of wondering why. 10 years of miss. 10 years of memories and hoping they will never fade.

Lockdown made our usual traditions more challenging but I was determined to at least go visit his grave and sneak in a walk in his memory. 

On Jan 25th 2021, some of the country was covered under a blanket of fresh snow. So, after bringing him some nice flowers, we drove up towards Maghera for a walk in a true winter wonderland.

Snow does not happen very often in Ireland which made the walk even more magical. As schools were online at that time, we got to share that day with Patrick's brother. The pristine white snow, the sound of it under our boots, the quiet, the deep blue sky and the sunshine it was just what our souls needed at that time. 

It would be the first of many Peaks For Patrick in 2021 and I'll share the others in due course. 

                


Now it's time for me to go
A new dawn for my little soul
So goodbye beloved friend
There's a life beyond, this is not the end
MPK "Home"